Sardine can collage

Pieces of us

CANNED FISH

The fish passes from hand to hand, in a journey of wisdom and taste that’s as old as the process of food preservation itself, discovered by Frenchman Nicolas Appert in the early 19th century. The technique requires the hands of many people—mostly women, and on the production line we usually find several generations from the same family. Machines also assist in the canning process. Often, in the final stage of canning, experienced hands are brought in to wrap each can, with a mastery that time and repetition has helped perfect.

Portugal’s canning industry carries the most weight on the scale of national exports. About 70% of production leaves the country and each can takes more than just fish with it. It requires the art of preparation which is anchored in experience and more recently, it takes our extraordinary ability to turn difficult situations around.

It was at the beginning of the 20th century, with the outbreak of the First World War, that the Portuguese canning industry reached its peak. Each can represented nourishment for soldiers on both sides of the conflict that ravaged the world. By 1920, more than 400 factories spanned the country.

After World War II, with no troops to feed, sales fell sharply. Other problems such as overfishing and the entry of North African competitors caused many companies to fail. According to the National Association of Canned Fish Industry, only 20 canning factories remain in Portugal today.

Innovation and communication. This would be the key to success.

Spreading the message of its health benefits was a decisive step. Raising the Omega-3 flag and the flag of other healthy components that nobody really remembers by name, (… vaguely) but we all know that we need, is a very important detail. Realizing the growing appetite for healthier products, the industry adapted, offering products preserved in water and featuring low salt content.

Innovating recipes and demonstrating the simple fact that in order for you to become a true Gourmet Chef, you need a few fundamental ingredients in your pantry—canned sardines, marinated eel, squid in tomato sauce and maybe a spicy tuna.

Since we also eat with our eyes, innovation in packaging design was crucial. Be it the revival of vintage designs, commissioning visual artists who have their art printed on cans or with social inclusion projects such as “Miúdos especiais com muita lata” (which loosely translates to “Special kids with moxy”), where Comur, one of Portugal’s oldest canning companies challenged a group of autistic children to illustrate a special edition of cans. All this has led to the opening of boutiques that look less like stores and more like rooms displaying a sliver of Portugal’s history.

Innovation and communication helped this sector of the economy rise from the ashes and transform itself into something highly profitable, dynamic and quite beautiful.

These pieces of us have taken on the role of ambassador for Portuguese culture, of excellence in terms of fish and now more than ever, of innovativion.

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Pinhais Sardine Can on a plate

PINHAIS

PINHAIS & CIA, LIMITED
MATOSINHOS, PT | EST. 1920
CONSERVASPINHAIS.PT
COLLECTION OF CRISTINA DA COSTA
INGREDIENTS: 3-5 SARDINES, TOMATO SAUCE (HOMEMADE SECRET RECIPE)

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Costumes Portuguezessardine can on a plate

COSTUMES PORTUGUEZES

PORTUGAL HOUSE
PORTO, PT | EST. 2017
@THEPORTUGALHOUSE
COLLECTION OF CRISTINA GALRÃO
INGREDIENTS: SARDINES, REFINED OLIVE OIL, SALT

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Fayas sardine can on a plate

FAYAS

SOCIEDADE CORRETORA LDA
PONTA DELGADA, PT | EST. 1913
CORRETORA.COM.PT
COLLECTION OF CRISTINA GALRÃO
INGREDIENTS: TUNA, SUNFLOWER OIL, SALT

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I Love Portugal sardine can on a plate

I LOVE PORTUGAL

I LOVE PORTUGAL
VIALONGA, PT | EST. 2012
ILOVEPORTUGAL.COM
COLLECTION OF CRISTINA DA COSTA
INGREDIENTS: SARDINES, OLIVE OIL, SALT

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Estorias Portuguesassardine can on a plate

ARTE NOVA

ESTÓRIAS PORTUGUESAS
AVEIRO, PT
LOJA.AVEIROEMOTIONS.COM
COLLECTION OF CARLOS OLIVEIRA
INGREDIENTS: TUNA FILLET, OLIVE OIL, SALT

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Lata sardine can on a plate

LATA

LATA
TORONTO, CA | EST. 2019
LATAFISH.COM
COLLECTION OF CRISTINA DA COSTA
INGREDIENTS: SARDINES, WATER, SALT, SOYA OIL, CHILLI PEPPER, TOMATO

 

Cego do Maio sardine can on a plate

CEGO DO MAIO

CEGO DO MAIO
APÓVOA DE VARZIM, PT | EST. 2012
CEGODEMAIO.PT
COLLECTION OF CARLOS OLIVEIRA
INGREDIENTS: TUNA, WATER, SALT

 

Comur sardine can on a plate

COMUR

COMUR
MURTOSA, PT | EST. 1942
CORRETORA.COM.PT
COLLECTION OF ASHLIE BANDEIRA
INGREDIENTS: SARDINES, OLIVE OIL, SALT

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Lucas sardine can on a plate

LUÇAS

LUÇAS & CA., LDA
MATOSINHOS, PT | EST. 1920
LUCAS.PT
COLLECTION OF CRISTINA DA COSTA
INGREDIENTS: TUNA, CASA S. MIGUEL EXTRA VIRGIN OLIVE OIL, SALT.

 

Risonho Sardine Can on a plate

RISONHO

COFACO AÇORES, INDUSTRIA CONSERVAS
LISBOA, PT | EST. 1961
COFACO.PT
COLLECTION OF CRISTINA GALRÃO
INGREDIENTS: TUNA, VEGETABLE OIL, SALT

 

WORDS: MADALENA BALÇA
PHOTOS: NOAH GANHÃO

 

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