Linny's Steakhouse shot by Daniel Neuhaus for LUSO magazine.

Who is Linny?

INTRO & INTERVIEWS: NOAH GANHÃO 
INTRO & PHOTOS: DANIEL NEUHAUS 

 

Linny’s is old-school deli meets mid-century steakhouse. Like the name, which pays homage to owner David Shwartz’s mother Linda, the restaurant’s menu and design also take cues from his home and heritage. Similar to family, a restaurant is a reflection of the people in it, so to gain a better idea of who Linny’s is, we spoke to the people that make it happen.


Who are you? Ethan Rogers, head chef at Linny’s. What’s your mom’s name? Favourite dish from her? Leia Ger. Favourite dish: “Loose”. This dish originated when my mom was a child. My grandmother would make stuffed peppers, but my mom hated cooked peppers so she asked her to make the filling “loose”. So she cooked a mixture of ground beef, rice and vegetables with Worcester sauce, onion, garlic and dried herbs. It’s now become a generational favorite! Three dream dinner party guests (dead or alive). Thomas Keller, Magic Johnson, Dua Lipa. Favourite Linny’s menu item? Kasha and Bows. Notable culinary memory or experience… As soon as I was old enough to pull a chair up to the stove, my dad gave me the responsibility of stirring the gravy and making sure it didn’t burn. From that point forward it was my job every Thanksgiving. Thoughts on ordering steak well done… When I was a young cook at Barberian’s, I was told that if you can cook someone a perfect well done steak, you gain a regular guest for life. What restaurant are you interested in trying? 20 Victoria. Closing song of choice? Love Story (Digital Dog remix) – Taylor Swift.

 


Who are you? Blaise Couturier, bar manager at Linny’s. What’s your mom’s name? Favourite dish from her? Therese. Mom’s Lasagna hits different. She would spend all day preparing it. Three dream dinner party guests (dead or alive). Danny Glover, Erika Badou, Jean-Michel Basquiat. Favourite Linny’s menu item? Giant tiger prawns… but the challah, caesar, prawn combo is killer. Notable culinary memory or experience… Difficult to narrow down, I really enjoy dining like locals do while traveling. Ceviche on a boat in Peru that you caught yourself, Tacos de barbacoa on the side of the road in Mexico… or even Green mango and papaya salad that you order “local hot” and then end up questioning your life decisions, morals, and existence while eating it. Thank you Thailand. Thoughts on ordering steak well done… Haha personally medium rare for me, but if the only way you enjoy your steak is burnt to a crisp…. Good luck to you. What restaurant are you interested in trying? Silo London, their dedication to waste reduction is unparalleled and the creativity to achieve this is mind blowing. Home bar must-haves? Bourbon (A good quality over proof 50%+), Angostura bitters, cane sugar syrup…. Rhum agricole. Closing song of choice? Anything off the Chase & Status “No More Idols” album.

 


Who are you? Jacob Rosen, food runner and server assistant at Linny’s. What’s your mom’s name? Favourite dish from her? Gili, but in my house she was never really the head chef (I’m sorry mom, you’re great at other things). My dad’s matzah ball soup is probably the dish that makes me feel most at home. Three dream dinner party guests (dead or alive). Nathan Fielder, Freddie Gibbs and Nina Simone with honourable mentions to Jeff Tweedy and Grace Kelly. Favourite Linny’s menu item? The roasted lamb neck is one of the hardest dishes to run to tables because it has such a rich, mouth-watering aroma. I always leave tables a little sad that I’m not able to join them. Notable culinary memory or experience… At a restaurant in Athens with a friend and his family… the table speaking purely greek, plate after plate of meats and salads, numerous rounds of ouzo shots, family photos, smoking at the table and bouzouki and piano filling the air. It was one of the most beautiful and chaotic dinners I’ve ever had. Thoughts on ordering steak well done… I’m not a steak snob, so I wouldn’t want to judge, but my general rule of thumb is, if a chef is like ‘don’t do that’, I would trust them. What restaurant are you interested in trying? Dreyfus. Home bar must-haves? A proper citrus juicer. Closing song of choice? “The Piano Has Been Drinking” by Tom Waits or “Such a Night” by Dr. John.

 


Who are you? Chanelle Amey, general manager at Linny’s. What’s your mom’s name? Favourite dish from her? Her name is Nadeige. My fav dish that she makes is jerk chicken. To the point that I can’t eat jerk chicken at any restaurant because it’ll never live up to it. Three dream dinner party guests (dead or alive). Obama and my grandpa. Favourite Linny’s menu item? Pastrami. I’ve watched David work on it and talk about it for years, so seeing it come to life is really cool. Notable culinary memory or experience… When I first started working in restaurants when I was 17 and realized that steak wasn’t supposed to be eaten well done. Thoughts on ordering steak well done… See comment above. What restaurant are you interested in trying? I really want to go to Bar Clam when it opens. Home bar must-haves? Wine. Closing song of choice? I love silence at the end of the night. My favourite part is turning off the music and having some quiet.

 


Who are you? Ari, server assistant at Linny’s. What’s your mom’s name? Favourite dish from her? My mother’s name is Nimrose. My absolute favourite dish that my mother cooked was lamb siniyah. It’s a Middle Eastern dish. Slow cooked lamb with a beautiful tahini crush and mashed potatoes. Three dream dinner party guests (dead or alive). My grandmother, Anthony Bourdain, Ben Shewry. Favourite Linny’s menu item? Tripe schnitzel. Notable culinary memory or experience… I moved a lot at as a child. My mother had this amazing ability to adapt to the environment around her and her cooking was the representation of it. I used to spend hours in the kitchen with her, where she would explain to me how she would mesh new ingredients with familiar ones to make fusion dishes. I grew my love for culinary with her. Thoughts on ordering steak well done… Reaching for a really beautiful cut of steak and eating it well done would be a disservice not just to yourself but the steak. You are supposed to taste the flavour, tenderness and juiciness of it. In short, you can’t do that with a very well done steak!  What restaurant are you interested in trying? Rolo’s In NY (their two-sheet lasagna verde is a mystery to me). Closing song of choice? “Taylor” by Jack Johnson.

 


 

LINNY’S
176 OSSINGTON AVE
TORONTO, ON
LINNYSRESTAURANT.COM

 

Bubbe

[MAKES 1]

A complex daiquiri, reminding you of things your grandmother had in the pantry. Jammy notes of apricot pair perfectly with the complex notes of pomace brandy, crisp and clean citrus with a subtle ginger bite.

INGREDIENTS

  • 1.75 OZ WHITE RUM
  • 0.25 OZ GRAPPA
  • 0.5 OZ SIMPLE SYRUP
  • 1 TSP APRICOT JAM
  • 1 OZ LIME JUICE
  • 2 SLICES OF GINGER
  • 1 LIME PEEL COUPE GLASS

DIRECTIONS

  1. Add ingredients to a shaker with ice, and hard shake until well-chilled.
  2. Double strain through fine mesh strainer into a chilled coupe.
  3. Garnish with a lime peel.
  4. Start sipping!
Linny's Steakhouse shot by Daniel Neuhaus for LUSO magazine.
Linny's Steakhouse shot by Daniel Neuhaus for LUSO magazine.
Linny's Steakhouse shot by Daniel Neuhaus for LUSO magazine.
Linny's Steakhouse shot by Daniel Neuhaus for LUSO magazine.
Linny's Steakhouse shot by Daniel Neuhaus for LUSO magazine.
Linny's Steakhouse shot by Daniel Neuhaus for LUSO magazine.
Linny's Steakhouse shot by Daniel Neuhaus for LUSO magazine.
Linny's Steakhouse shot by Daniel Neuhaus for LUSO magazine.
Linny's Steakhouse shot by Daniel Neuhaus for LUSO magazine.
Linny's Steakhouse shot by Daniel Neuhaus for LUSO magazine.
Linny's Steakhouse shot by Daniel Neuhaus for LUSO magazine.
Linny's Steakhouse shot by Daniel Neuhaus for LUSO magazine.

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